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Thread: Question for the electronics boffins.

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    Evil Biker Scum Charlieboy's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Question for the electronics boffins.

    A while ago Doppler (please correct me if I'm wrong)shared his ideas of fitting a remote under the seat and attaching a button onto the handlebars.

    I would like to do the same thing but from a different angle. I spoke to a buddy at work and he came up with a brilliant idea but I need someone (in the Cape) to make it work.

    He suggested that I mount the remote under the seat but have it activated by a relay which is wired up to the flash/pass button. So whenever I get home I just flash the brights and the gate opens.

    I am a mechanical person so this is above my "vuurmaakplek" so if there's anyone willing to make it work or point me towards someone who can, I will forever be in your debt.

    I am not looking for freebies so it needs to be a professional job.
    WOULD I DO IT ALL AGAIN DIFFERENTLY?...HELL NO!

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    Deanie Poo
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    Try and contact our resident techie, ....Da Cat.
    As far as i know he did what you are proposing a while ago.
    Pretty straight forward if i remember correctly.

    Good luck.
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    Ultimate Biker DaCat's Avatar
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    Most remotes run on 12V so you can wire it directly to the bike... the flash button will most likely give a negative signal, so remove the battery out of the remote, hook the remote's negative terminal to the flash button and the remote's positive to any 12V positive on the bike... use an inline fuse though.

    You can even hook it directly to the high beam wires for the same effect :wink:

    Oh, and seal it with some silicone just to make sure it won't die on you if it gets wet.
    When in doubt, Gas It! It may not solve the problem, but it WILL end the suspense!

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    Deanie Poo
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    You see,easy peazie....

    Thanks DC.
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    Email: dean@vitalconsult.co.za

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    Ultimate Biker DaCat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beachbum View Post
    You see,easy peazie....

    Thanks DC.
    When in doubt, Gas It! It may not solve the problem, but it WILL end the suspense!

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    Hardcore Biker Dev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaCat View Post
    Most remotes run on 12V so you can wire it directly to the bike... the flash button will most likely give a negative signal, so remove the battery out of the remote, hook the remote's negative terminal to the flash button and the remote's positive to any 12V positive on the bike... use an inline fuse though.

    You can even hook it directly to the high beam wires for the same effect :wink:

    Oh, and seal it with some silicone just to make sure it won't die on you if it gets wet.
    Question: Yep they all work at 12 Volts, but wont a bike battery kick out many more Amps than the little 12volt battery that its supplied with and could blow the unit/remote? Shouldnt there be some sort of a resister and fuse between the positive terminal of battery and remote?

    Plus while a bike is running, isnt alternating current getting pumped into it to charge the battery via the stator? Isnt Only direct current is used to turn the starter motor?

    Im no pro, just ironing out any confusion

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    Evil Biker Scum Nexus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSteel View Post
    Question: Yep they all work at 12 Volts, but wont a bike battery kick out many more Amps than the little 12volt battery that its supplied with and could blow the unit/remote? Shouldnt there be some sort of a resister and fuse between the positive terminal of battery and remote?

    Plus while a bike is running, isnt alternating current getting pumped into it to charge the battery via the stator? Isnt Only direct current is used to turn the starter motor?
    Correct, you should fit some sort of resistor to control Amperage (I think, if I remember the basics of electronics correctly)
    FORGET ABOUT WORLD PEACE...VISUALIZE USING YOUR TURN SIGNAL.

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    Evil Biker Scum Charlieboy's Avatar
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    So if I hook it up directly to the high beam wires could I place it inside the headlamp housing. So as I flash current will pass through and activate the gate.
    Thanks for all the advise so far.
    WOULD I DO IT ALL AGAIN DIFFERENTLY?...HELL NO!

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    Evil Biker Scum Nexus's Avatar
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    I guess that could work Charlie, I would also suggest talking to the guys at Yebo Electronics or Zakspeed for circuit protection bits and bobs.
    FORGET ABOUT WORLD PEACE...VISUALIZE USING YOUR TURN SIGNAL.

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    Ultimate Biker DaCat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSteel View Post
    Question: Yep they all work at 12 Volts, but wont a bike battery kick out many more Amps than the little 12volt battery that its supplied with and could blow the unit/remote? Shouldnt there be some sort of a resister and fuse between the positive terminal of battery and remote?

    Plus while a bike is running, isnt alternating current getting pumped into it to charge the battery via the stator? Isnt Only direct current is used to turn the starter motor?

    Im no pro, just ironing out any confusion
    Nah, don't worry. The device only consumes the current it requires to drive the circuitry. :wink: I do recommend an inline fuse for protection if something goes wrong.

    Your bike voltage may go as high as 14.5V whilst charging, shouldn't be a problem though. Your new battery is also not at 12V when it's new, could be 12.5V :wink:

    As for the AC/DC issue, the only AC circuit is from your stator, which is a 3 phase AC system. After the rectumfrier and regulator it is DC and the voltage is stabilised. You may get some "noise" on the power lines, at that you will see as an AC component superimposed on the DC line.

    The biggest danger of hooking to the headlight is back EMF when you switch the headlight off. There could be a surge (reverse) which could hurt the remote, but the remote will most likely have a diode for protection so it should be okay. A vehicle is an extremely noisy environment.
    When in doubt, Gas It! It may not solve the problem, but it WILL end the suspense!

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    Cool man, thanks for the info. Goes into my library of knowledge when I hook one up in the future, but I would have to hook it up to my hooter as I have on high beam flasher on my Busa

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    Ultimate Biker DaCat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    Correct, you should fit some sort of resistor to control Amperage (I think, if I remember the basics of electronics correctly)
    Why? What resistors are the dash using? What resistors is the ECU using?

    Devices only consume the power they require to operate. Only in a fault condition will they draw more and then smoke ... and that's why we use fuses, to protect the wiring and the components.
    When in doubt, Gas It! It may not solve the problem, but it WILL end the suspense!

  13. #13
    Ultimate Biker DaCat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSteel View Post
    Cool man, thanks for the info. Goes into my library of knowledge when I hook one up in the future, but I would have to hook it up to my hooter as I have on high beam flasher on my Busa

    Getting home at 3am will have your neighbours throwing you with their slippers
    When in doubt, Gas It! It may not solve the problem, but it WILL end the suspense!

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    Evil Biker Scum Nexus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaCat View Post
    Why? What resistors are the dash using? What resistors is the ECU using?

    Devices only consume the power they require to operate. Only in a fault condition will they draw more and then smoke ... and that's why we use fuses, to protect the wiring and the components.
    Kewl, my knowledge of electrical and electronic bits is a bit suspect. I do however always go for overkill when it comes to protection of things. But so we learn. Thanks for the info DC, now me knows aswell.
    FORGET ABOUT WORLD PEACE...VISUALIZE USING YOUR TURN SIGNAL.

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    Ultimate Biker DaCat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    Kewl, my knowledge of electrical and electronic bits is a bit suspect. I do however always go for overkill when it comes to protection of things. But so we learn. Thanks for the info DC, now me knows aswell.
    Over engineering is good, it's a good attitude to have
    When in doubt, Gas It! It may not solve the problem, but it WILL end the suspense!

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    Hardcore Biker Dev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaCat View Post
    Getting home at 3am will have your neighbours throwing you with their slippers
    He he!! Ok ok, I'll rather hookup another waterproof button

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    King Kong Brass Cahoonas Unchained's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSteel View Post
    Question: Yep they all work at 12 Volts, but wont a bike battery kick out many more Amps than the little 12volt battery that its supplied with and could blow the unit/remote? Shouldnt there be some sort of a resister and fuse between the positive terminal of battery and remote?

    Plus while a bike is running, isnt alternating current getting pumped into it to charge the battery via the stator? Isnt Only direct current is used to turn the starter motor?

    Im no pro, just ironing out any confusion
    12V is 12V, the actual current in Amp is determined by the load (if the source can supply it), thus a bigger battery cannot force a greater current through a fixed load (resistance).

    This is all perfectly described by Ohm's law: V = I x R, or in this case: I = V / R

    V - Voltage
    I - Current in Amps
    R - Resistance in Ohm

    Minor variations in values are generally not an issue, in the olden days resistors were manufactured with a tolerance of 20%.

    Hope this helps
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    Ultimate Biker DaCat's Avatar
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    Very good reminder there Unchained... Ohm's Law is very important.

    Folks, also keep in mind that all electronic devices are manufactured with smoke which is entrapped inside the little components. Should the smoke escape, which is normally visible, then the device is ISM cos you won't be able to get the smoke back inside it to make it work again :wink:
    When in doubt, Gas It! It may not solve the problem, but it WILL end the suspense!

  19. #19
    King Kong Brass Cahoonas Unchained's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaCat View Post
    Folks, also keep in mind that all electronic devices are manufactured with smoke which is entrapped inside the little components. Should the smoke escape, which is normally visible, then the device is ISM cos you won't be able to get the smoke back inside it to make it work again :wink:
    Of all the things I've lost, I miss myelin the most!


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    It happens...but some of them magic smoke boxes cost a bloody fortune
    FORGET ABOUT WORLD PEACE...VISUALIZE USING YOUR TURN SIGNAL.

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